The Russian Tea Room, an old favorite of A-list
celebrities, reopened, and the see-and-be-seen crowd was back to
judge whether the restaurant still has it after a four-year, $22
The ladies who lunch streamed through the revolving doors "just
left of Carnegie Hall'' beginning promptly at 11:30 a.m., greeted
by waiters in red tunics pouring vodka and dishing caviar.
Reminiscent of the restaurant's glory days, the well-to-do were
seated Monday in buttery red leather seats that look nearly
identical to the vinyl ones once reserved for Jackie O. and Paul
Shiny hunter-green walls and gilded molding offset period
Russian paintings and antique samovars, making the old crowd feel
right at home.
Among those with reservations the first day were entertainment
agent Sam Cohn, writer Sidney Sheldon, and the former owner of the
Russian Tea Room, Faith Stewart-Gordon.
"It's beautiful,'' said Ms. Stewart-Gordon. "I was really
stunned when I saw it.''
When the restaurant opened in 1926, it really was a tea room,
and its patrons were largely Russian artists, especially dancers.
Over the years, it became a full-service establishment that served
up to 1,000 people a day.
Ms. Stewart-Gordon sold the restaurant to Tavern on the Green
proprietor Warner LeRoy in 1995, after he promised a top-to-bottom
renovation would preserve the soul of the place. The ground floor
is a carefully recreated version of its former self.
A 700-pound ice sculpture modeled after St. Basil's Cathedral in
Moscow graced the entrance to the first-floor dining room Monday,
its turrets filled with premium vodka and champagne. Two more like
it will be delivered each day.
An 18-foot revolving aquarium designed for snub-nosed sturgeon
welcomes second-floor visitors, who are seated on red velvet or
green brocade upholstery beneath a 700,000-piece Tiffany stained
glass ceiling. The aquarium dominates the room, but shares the
spotlight with a towering gold-painted tree hung with 35
Faberge-inspired glass eggs worth about $500,000.
The upper floors are reserved for private use, and include a
fireplace, sapphire-blue walls, domed ceilings painted in bronze,
and a three-dimensional diorama of pre-revolutionary Red Square,
complete with a little czar reviewing Russian troops.
LeRoy calls the food an American reinvention of Russian cuisine.
He even enlisted a Russian history professor-turned-cookbook author
The over-the-top style carries with it the risk that the
once-venerable establishment will become little more than a
pre-revolutionary Russian theme restaurant alongside Planet
Hollywood, one of its neighbors on West 57th Street.
LeRoy isn't worried. He says the place is his fantasy come true.
"And restaurant going, I think, is a fantasy,'' he said.